Click here to see Gene's blog
March
Click here to see Gene's blog
February
Biking
Through Africa For Africa-Aid |
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May 17, 2008 |
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May 10, 2008 |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We
arrived! A 20 km convoy into Cape Town, and now lots of ceremonies, much
of which I ignored to check my e-mail for the first time in two weeks.
Come to find out I didn’t miss much online. It
feels great to be done. Lots of good feeling as we all congratulate each
other. It was a very nice day. I celebrated with a couple of glasses of
good wine. There will be a dinner for us tonight with a slide show. I will
probably buy the DVD, although Jane tells me I was barely visible in the
Tour photos and videos. There were several good photographers and video
cameramen on the Tour, so it should be pretty good. My
biggest achievement is that I was EFI from Lusaka on. That feels good. We
are staying at the Breakwater Lodge, which has been upgraded since Jane,
Leo and I stayed there in 2001. Tomorrow I’ve arranged to move to
another hotel a few miles away in Green Point to get away and unwind. The
phone I bought in Malawi hasn’t worked for the last three days, so
I’ll probably have to buy a phone card. Now
that I’m no longer riding, I find I don’t have enough clothes to keep
me warm. It’s cold and rainy here. Still I feel good and it’s over.
I’m very anxious to be coming home in a few days. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-9-08 Yesterday
my cell phone wouldn’t work. Today I’m using my sim card in someone
else’s phone. Yesterday, after leaving from Eland’s Bay, it was quite
hard, 80 km off road, rolling hills. We’ve been right along the Atlantic
Ocean the last two days. Today
we rode in dunes. My legs are pretty exhausted. We are camped on the beach
at Ysterfontein. Tonight is our final dinner. The food is good, the same
old chairs still uncomfortable. It is pretty cold. Fine in the sleeping
bag and tent, but not too pleasant otherwise. I will finish off my eland,
springbok and kudu biltong tomorrow. Good stuff. Tomorrow
we finish in Cape Town. First we ride 65 km, then group for a lot of
pictures and are escorted by convoy for the last 22 km into Cape Town.
They have a number of events and awards planned at the waterfront. I just
want it to be finished. We
will be staying at the Breakwater Inn. There
have been no serious illnesses. Spiros, who broke his collarbone, was back
riding after a few weeks. I think people have been healthier than in
previous years, in part due to better hygiene, but definitely due to
having a doctor along. All
in all, I feel good about having done it and I feel good about (almost)
being done. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-7-08 Today
was hard. My legs felt like jelly at the end. 148 km. Very hilly with more
than a km of vertical climb. The day started out cold and rainy, looking
like the Scottish highlands, then cleared and looked like Nevada. The last
50 km we saw the coast range of South Africa, flat-topped mountains
similar to Table Mountain in Cape Town. There
are 60 to 70 riders in the Tour now. With staff, we are 80 people at
breakfast. We stopped tonight in Vanrhynsdorp after riding through sheep
and cattle farms. I visited a succulent nursery here and took pictures of
plants. I don’t know what they are but maybe Jane can tell. I
thought the Tour info said we would be climbing about 25 vertical miles in
total. My calculations make it closer to 40. We’ve averaged over a half
km of climbing for each of the 100 cycling days. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-5-08 I
am now in South Africa. The last few days have been really great. Very
difficult but in a rewarding way. It’s beautiful, looks a lot like Utah.
We had three off-road days. The day before our last rest day, May 3, is
the last time I’m going to say, “It was the hardest day ever.” We
rode 175 km, 125 km of it off-road. It was very hilly, lots of steep
downhills, then we ended with 50 km of a head wind. On
the rest day, I did some canoeing on the Orange River. It borders Namibia
and South Africa here. We are still doing 80 to 120 miles a day. Usually,
we’ve been having a tail wind in the morning, then it turns around into
a head wind in the afternoon. Still I am really enjoying it. Today
I saw the most interesting animal of the trip—a Cape Cobra. It coiled as
I was passing it on the road. I got off the bike to go back for a better
look but kept my distance. I was about ten to fifteen from it and tried to
get a picture. It
is starting to feel like fall/winter here. Today was cold and windy. We
are about 100 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and will reach it in two more
days. Tomorrow is supposed to be a difficult day. Only
five more days to ride! |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We
are camped at Quiver Tree camp about 20 km north of Keetmanshoop. The
Quiver Trees are a tree-sized aloe (Aloe dichotoma—Jane looked it up)
also called a Kokerboom here. They look a lot like Joshua trees in the
southern California desert. The bark is hard, but the inside is spongy so
they can store a lot of water. About the only tree around here. Nearby are
a bunch of participatory sculptures made of sticks, like you see on San
Francisco Bay by Emoryville. We only did 148 km today. It was an easy day until lunch, then a long slow climb with a head wind for about 50 km. The bike is still OK. The new tent is OK, although there is not really anything to test it yet. It hasn’t been cold. Our last rest day is Saturday, May 3. The Tour ends May 10 in Cape Town |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This
morning our hostess cooked in the house for us—eggs, sausage, tomatoes
and bread. We each paid about $13. It was very nice. Today’s ride was only 140 km because we had added on to yesterday. We are camped in a place called Gibeon next to an abandoned railroad station. Today I passed a Commonwealth Cemetery with war graves (British and German) from the Battle of Gibeon in 1915. I know nothing about it. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Our
first day biking south out of Windhoek turned out to be a very long day.
We were supposed to camp at 150 km in a bush camp. The trucks were held up
because the drivers had to get permits, so they weren’t there when we
arrived. Tony and I decided to continue to a town 45 km further.
Fortunately, it has been mostly a tail wind today. Temperatures have been
in the 70’s. It has been mountainous and very beautiful. Here
they don’t have coke stops, they have biltong (jerky from game) stops.
There was a colored woman barbequing mutton on the side of the road. When Tony and I got to the town, we discovered that it was a gas station, a few houses and no hotels or rooms. We were about to go to the police station and sleep on the floor when someone told us that there were two elderly bicyclists staying at a house across the way. Turns out it was Michael and John. A lovely colored woman owned the house and had been thinking of turning it into a B & B. So four of us five old guys stayed there for the night. They brought in beds, two to a room and fed us hamburger and chips. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I
had a great time with Liz Lightfoot and family (Amy’s friend here on a
Fulbright). They took me to a game farm. We saw a leopard eating some meat
set out for it. This animal could no longer hunt. We also saw cheetahs,
not wild ones, but ones kept in the park. Namibia seems to be full of
game—a good place to visit again, I’m thinking. I did buy a new tent with only about two weeks to go. I’m planning on donating it to the Boy Scouts in Cape Town. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I
seem to be spending my free day in Windhoek trying to get my tent pole
repaired. A night in a hotel makes me realize how exhausted I am. I need
rest, but I will have dinner with Amy Levine's friend tonight. Last night
I had a great Namibian meal—Oryx ragout with spaetzle. A lot of people
with German heritage live here. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today
we biked into Windhoek, Namibia. The first 110 km was the same boring flat
stuff. Then we discovered why the airport is 40 km outside of Windhoek.
Those last 40 km suddenly became quite hilly, tough at the end of a long
day. This part of Namibia looks a lot like southern California, hilly,
scrubby and dry. My tent pole broke for the third time, so I’m going to find a B & B for the night and look for a hardware store to see if I can fix it. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tonight
we are camped at Witvlei. Another 100 mile day, very flat and monotonous,
acacia trees and scrub. On the road this AM I saw two kudu and some large
antelope. These are the first wild animals I’ve seen since Okavango.
Others have seen elephants and other things from the roads, but it's just
chance. Shows how few the animals are here. We stopped briefly in a town
called Gobabis. There were San and some Herero people, a Bantu group that
dresses like 19th Century women, also Germans. I
decided, after not sleeping well last night, that one reason Lusaka
revived me so much was sleeping in a bed in a quiet room instead of in the
tent surrounded by other tents, so I’m getting a hotel in Windhoek. Last
night the old men were chatting about the Tour and I said, "You can't
put professionalism and the TdA in the same sentence." Randy, the
staff member from Toronto, who is in some way in charge, heard and came
over and asked what we had in mind. He wrote down 35 specific things we
thought were done wrong and should be done better. Poor guy. We
had a very interesting talk about the TdA. Tony ignored the warnings and
biked through Kenya alone, so he's the only true member of the EFI club.
John said he envied him. Tony said he thought instead that I had the right
idea, getting off the tour and doing other things. John said he committed
to biking Africa so that's what he wants to do. I said I started with that
commitment but gradually decided that there are better ways of doing this. I’m feeling good about the Tour now that the end is in sight. I’m able to push myself more. I’m going to end on a strong note. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A
very long day—207 kms. Nine hours of biking, 7 AM to 4 PM. We take a 30
minute break for lunch, another 15 fifteen break later on and occasional 5
to 10 minute stops. The terrain is flat, mostly a tailwind, but endless.
We have two more 160 km days to Windhoek. The country is mostly scrub and
cattle country. We are camped by a gas station just over the Namibian
border. |
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Yesterday
was a terrible day—a hundred miles (8 hrs) of mostly a head wind, ending
at a bush camp in the middle of thorns and rocks. Today
was a good day, 139 km, partly head wind and partly tail wind, ending in a
real campground with showers, flush toilets, a swimming pool and a bar. I
spent most of the day riding with Tony from New Zealand. At one point, we
were looking for a coke. We saw a sign for a village about 1 km off the
main road. We were surprised to come upon a San (Bushman) village with
lots of donkey carts and people who looked so completely different. The
San are one of the oldest ethnic groups in Africa. They were here before
any of the Bantu (black) tribes came to southern Africa. They are an
endangered race whose skin is yellowish. The
last two days I have seen Palm Nut Vultures—an unusual and good bird to
find. I do enjoy being with some of the people on the Tour, mostly the old guys. John from England is 67. Michael from Rochester NY is 65. Gavin from South Africa is 68 today. Ton from Holland is always in high spirits and fun to be around. His wife is Helene. I also like being with Louise and Henk, another Dutch couple, and Rae and Ursula who joined me in the Okavango. (Jane tells me there is a picture of me on Ursula (Haas)'s website.) It
is just an exhausting schedule. I’m usually up by 5 AM, even though the
sun doesn’t come up until 6. We’re off early. Two sandwiches for lunch
are never enough. We bike maybe eight hours. At dinner, everyone is so
starved, they rush through dinner. It’s not really a social time. The
chairs are very uncomfortable. I’m so exhausted, I’m usually in bed by
7:30 PM. Tomorrow
is the longest day. We bike 206 km to the Namibian border and camp just on
the other side. Only two more countries to go. |
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today, a rest day, in Maun, Botswana, is a slow day, but relaxing. Laundry as usual. We are camping near the Okavango River. I took a walk and saw some birds. I was able to identify them myself. Earlier, I saw a truck that said, “Botswana Birdlife.” I talked to the guy, who loaned me his good binoculars. It helped a lot. I also road my bike 6-7 km into town and had a flat from a thorn. In town, I had the best dinner I’ve had in months—a nice grilled fish, a glass of wine and black forest cake. Thirteen dollars and what a treat! I met a young Canadian doing field work. When you are in a group of fifty, you don’t really meet anyone around around you except the group. When you are by yourself, you meet a lot of interesting people.
We
took another early morning game walk. We were camped on a very small
island in the Delta, and took a short—2 minute—canoe ride to a bigger
island where there's a pool to look for birds. As on earlier days, we
smell some animals, but the dominant smell is wild sage. We did see ducks
and other water birds. Back
at our camp site, we see a huge number of animals. Unfortunately, almost
all of them are ants. The escape from civilization into nature has its
costs. Then
we are back to camping with the group. What a shock! The noise level after
being out alone and all they talk about is today's ride and nothing else.
It's not interesting enough. In Okavango, Rae and Ursula and I actually
had enough time to have real conversations. I don't want to be with most
of these people. Being more solitary was such a pleasure. The ride I
missed sounded very hard and unrewarding. You can either focus on the
cycling or on Africa, and it sounds like neither worked on these
days—long and boring with a headwind for 7-8 hours. You can't focus on
cycling in these conditions, and there wasn't much else to focus on. When
I got back to the group after being away a few days, I was surprised how
thin and unhealthy several of the men look. We're over our limit. One of the disappointments of these 4 months is that a lot of Africa isn't, frankly, very interesting. If you wind up in a small town in the United States, say St. Cloud, there will be something of interest to see, a church, a courthouse, museum, a building done by an eccentric millionaire. In Africa, except for Cairo, Addis and Cape Town, there is nothing of interest even in the big cities. There's no public culture here.
We
went on a morning game walk for several hours. Saw zebras, giraffes, gnus,
and some decent birds. The rains were heavy this year so the animals are
dispersed, but that's the way it is. A lot of land and high grass, so we
won’t see a lot, but it's great to be out, completely isolated and where
people aren't at home. It's very quiet and you see no human impact. After
the game walk, another short walk, and we're at a swimming hole. There are
other white people! Both the land and the marshes are so uniform in the Delta that I don't know how we don't get lost. At 5 PM we went for a mokoro ride to a large pool in the Delta, full of other white people, but also full of hippos. We kept our distance and watched until dark. Again, what's great about this trip is that seeing hippos from a canoe is very different from being on a bigger boat or a truck. We're in the water with them. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4-16-08 On
last night’s Chobe River boat ride, we did see 40 elephants at once.
(There are 800,000 elephants and 1.2 million people in Botswana.) There
was one in the water with a cattle egret hitching a ride. This morning I
went on a game drive. We saw three lions up very close, a female with two
young males. Lots of impalas, a Kori Bustard, but otherwise it felt pretty
quiet. The
Thebe River lodge made calls for three of us (me, Canadians Rae Simpson
and wife Ursula Haas) to fly to Maun and a take a mokoro (dugout canoe)
trip into the Delta for three days and two nights. We will be bringing our
camping gear and providing our own food. A mokoro is a dugout canoe
propelled by guides who use poles in the shallow water. A
white South African drove us to the airport. I joked with him about the
size of his gut compared to mine. He pulled up his shirt to show me the
damage done by a wounded leopard until he killed it with his bare hands.
Ever since he can't exercise, but he can drink; hence the belly. On
the flight we were the only 3 passengers. Rae was in the Canadian air
force, and he jumped in the co-pilot's seat. He flew the plane for a
while, and we got an extra tour from the air. Turns out the pilot was the
owner of Mack Air, and charged us only half of what we were quoted. A
beautiful 1:20 flight over Chobe and Moremi National Parks and the
Okavango. I
can already tell that traveling with Rae and Ursula will be more
successful than with Rick. After two weeks with Rick, I wondered how Jane
has ever put up with me. I still wonder, but at least I feel better about
my ability to get along with people. We camped that night at Delta Rain camp, the outfitters who will take us into the Delta. The night before in Chobe, I heard all sorts of animals all night in the campground—elephants, other animals, and birds. I'm told hyenas too, but I couldn't identify them. Here it's almost completely silent. Some cicadas, an occasional donkey and some night birds. This is a quiet you'd never get at home and our 4th full moon. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I
felt very good about a 40 km time trial today in 1:23:30 in the middle of
our 95 km day. Then Gavin (age 67) announced that he did 1:18. The top
riders did :58. I asked one of them, Chris Wille, what he would have done
3 months ago. He guessed maybe 2 minutes slower. Bent (1:08) guessed he'd
do the same 3 months ago. So doing the TdA as a training tool makes as
much sense as using it as a weight loss regime. |
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To
get from Zambia to Botswana, you take a ferry, no bridge. Therefore there
are trucks lined up and waiting for 4-6 days. The bikes go with the
passengers, so no waiting, just chaos. I took lots of photos of the ferry
in Dongola, Sudan, across the Nile, but at this point crossing the Zambezi
seems routine. Because it was a short day, I took a cruise on the Chobe
River. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A
second rest day at Vic Falls. I did laundry. Tried and failed to get the
internet to work for me. I went to the Zambezi Sun Hotel for breakfast and
gorged myself on a huge buffet. It was good quality and a treat for once,
omelets, fruit. I’m still not hungry. Our regular fare is squalor in
comparison, sitting on chairs that are falling apart. The
mist at the Falls creates a rainbow for a couple of hours each morning. It
was beautiful. Tomorrow we cross into Botswana by ferry across the
Zambezi. Then we bike 95 km to Chobe National Park. I’m hoping to
arrange a few days in the Okavango Delta with a couple of other folks. So
far I haven’t succeeded in making those arrangements, but I’m still
hopeful. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I
had a very nice day, very pleasant and exciting. I took a six hour canoe
ride on the Zambezi River that started 40 km above the falls and ended 3
km above them, so you could see lots of the spray. There were five of us
in two inflatable canoes, just me and the guide in one. There were pretty
good rapids. I would have been scared without the guide. It was just the
right amount of paddling and looking around. We
got very close to an elephant feeding at the water’s edge. It would have
been too close in a car. We saw lots of hippos and some nice birds, Bee
Eaters, a Pied Kingfisher, several Fish Eagles and some plovers. Didn’t
see any crocs, though they were supposed to be there. Some people paid
$200 for a 20 minute helicopter ride above the falls. I think I made the
right decision. An enjoyable day. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I
made it to Vic Falls. Another really long day, but the ride felt very
good. I’ve been pushing hard and feeling good. I’ve been going 15 mph,
maybe it’s the tail wind. The road was very good for the first half,
then it turned terrible—lots of potholes, a fair amount of climbing.
It’s been hard but not in a frustrating way. In an Ironman, you bike a
hundred miles in between swimming and running a marathon. Of course, you
don’t do it every day. Taking the break I did in Lusaka really helped, especially psychologically, which is harder than the physical part. On my day off tomorrow, I’m taking a full day canoe trip on the Zambezi River. Hope to see good birds as well as hippos and crocs. I’ll also take a look at the Falls. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A
long day but not bad—105 miles. It is about as flat as you can imagine,
but still hillier than Minnesota. I’m only going about 14 mph, riding
from 6:30 AM until 3 PM, including breaks. Still cattle ranches. Much of
the road follows the railroad. Some other places were fairly steep. We are
camped on a dirt road just off the main road in the middle of nowhere.
Lusaka is 15 degrees latitude south of the equator, so our southward
journey brings us into the fall season in this part of Africa. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One
hundred miles today and it felt pretty good, some climbing, some headwind,
but mostly a tail wind. We had a two hour delay where we were stopped by
police at a checkpoint and about half of us had our passports checked.
Apparently, when we crossed the Zambian border someone took our money (It
now costs $150. It used to be free.) but did not give it to the correct
officials. My theory is that the new fee is in retaliation for US
immigration policy. The
country here is covered with huge cattle ranches with fences. It looks
wealthier and more like America. I don’t know if the ranch owners are
white or not, but they may well be. The land is flatter, but doesn’t
always feel flat on the bike. Another
episode occurred today. One of the 4x4’s accompanying us had a wheel fly
off and hit someone. The driver, from Toronto, was arrested. Not sure how
that is going to play out or how badly the person was hurt. I forgot to
say that since Sudan we have had three large trucks and two 4x4’s
accompanying us. The
fact that today marks one month from our finish is not lost on anyone.
Everyone is counting down the days. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The
rest of the Tour made it to Lusaka last night, so today I walked over to
where they are camping (about a mile from the Jesuit house), picked up my
bike and rode it back here. I’m spending tonight in a bed and will take
off early tomorrow with the Tour. I started Zithromax yesterday for a
bronchial infection and I think another night in a bed is a good idea. I
feel fair. Am still waiting for the antibiotic to kick in. All in all,
I’ve been pretty healthy. It’s hard because hygiene is not great. When
we wash our dishes, all 50 of us are using the same water. It’s pretty
dirty by the end. All of the new people who joined us in Lilongwe are
sick. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not
much happening today either. I figured out that I'm partly down because I
am getting sick. A head cold is threatening to become something more.
Otherwise, walked around downtown Lusaka this AM, and this PM spent some
time with the priest (McGloin) here who runs the Jesuit centre for
theological reflection. We had a good talk last night. His center is doing
interesting advocacy work here. We talked about aid that works and aid
that doesn’t. He, of course, has his degree from Chicago so we talk and
others leave the room. McGloin went to graduate school with Paul Wolfowitz. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm
getting a cold; have antibiotics in my red box but shouldn't die before
Tuesday when the group gets here. |
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Got
to the Jesuit house late last night. From Lilongwe it was 14 hours by bus.
We're supposed to do it in 5 days on the bike. Riding in the vehicle shows
how hard the road is, lots of climbs. I can read that two ways: a) this is
insane; b) if we're expected to do it, I can do it. The idea is to think
in terms of b) but it's hard. I’ve been thinking that one of my great
character flaws is that once I learn to do something I lose interest in
doing it. I think that is happening here, but I’m not alone. A lot of
people are getting tired of the ride by now. Part of it has to do with its
getting easier, but maybe for that reason less interesting. Tanzania was
beautiful but hard. Malawi looks similar but is easier, and less
interesting. I want to get back on the bike and be motivated, but it is
getting long. This
part of Lusaka has a couple of malls full of white people and all the
things I miss, and then get tired of and remember that that's why I left
America for Africa. Guess I’m not satisfied either way. I saw my first
four-lane highway in months. I bought some new reading glasses because my
old ones were so scratched I couldn’t read. Also a copy of Anna
Karenina. Most stuff that white people want is more expensive than at
home. The Jesuit house is very quiet, only four administrators here. They have lots of priests in the country and at AIDS hospices. The gardens and grounds are very pretty. It is across from the University. I went for a run for about an hour. It felt slow. |
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once
again, I'm outdone. Last night I met a Swiss cyclist who is cycling alone,
self-contained. He's been on the road for 22 months from Switzerland
through France and Spain, Morocco, then down West Africa to Cameroon,
where he cut through Congo to Uganda. He said the roads in Congo are so
bad that trucks only travel 10-15 k per day. People push bikes as
wheelbarrows full of goods for hundreds of miles. Just
as the bus started, we had a prayer. All the passengers bowed their heads
and then a woman went on for some time. "Tighten the bolts on this
bus in Jesus' name" was the highlight for me. But then she prayed
that the driver be safe and responsible. I liked that part better. There
was a great crush to get on the bus, for no reason. Someone said: "Be
polite. This isn't Burundi." I probably can't use that at home. At the border I was just cheated and have no idea how it happened. I was careful because lots of people were cheated at the previous border. Here I had 4760 Malawian kwacha. The money changers offered me 20/1, then 20.5, and eventually 25/1. I took his money before I let go of mine. Then he changed the rate back to 20.5, so I gave him his money back and walked away, and somehow found that I only have 2760 kwacha. I have no idea what happened. It's only $15 but it is a puzzle. |
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I
had dish duty this AM, so started biking late. I knew I would only bike a
half day, but the morning sounded hardest and I judged it unethical to use
the need to get to camp and dry clothes as an excuse to avoid the hard
part. Michael had dish duty with me and didn’t understand my reasoning. Malawi,
increasingly as we go south, doesn’t look poor like Sudan or Ethiopia
did. The land looks fertile and the buildings solid, the road is good.
Today it didn’t feel different from Tanzania, but it's supposed to be
much poorer. |
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